Situé à plus de 1000 km au sud de Tokyo, l’archipel d’Ogasawara est composé d’une quarantaine d’îles. Habité depuis seulement 200 ans, sa nature préservée offre un écosystème naturel unique, protégé depuis son inscription à l’UNESCO.
Un archipel au passé trouble
Deux rumeurs s’affrontent pour la découverte de l’archipel. Selon les sources occidentales, c’est le navigateur espagnol Bernardo de la Torre qui l’aurait découvert en 1543, alors que pour les japonais sa découverte est attribuée à Sadayori Ogasawara en 1593.
Les premiers immigrants ne s’y seraient installés qu’à partir de 1830. La population est alors composée de chasseurs de baleines (Européens, Hawaïens, Africains) et de leurs équipages.
En 1876, le Japon s’approprie le territoire alors appelé îles Bonin pour le renommer en Ogasawara en hommage au shōgun du même nom. Une première vague de migrations japonais arrive sur l’île et se mélangent aux autochtones (appelés ōbeikei).
Durant l’ère Taisho et Showa, les îles prospères grâce au climat subtropical propice à l’agriculture et à la pêche. La population dépasse les 7000 habitants, mais pendant la guerre les insulaires sont évacués de force sur le continent.
Après la guerre, l’archipel est sous domination militaire américaine et ne sera restitué au Japon qu’en 1968. Ce n’est qu’à ce moment-là que les résidents seront finalement autorisés à rentrer sur leur île.
Le Heart Rock des falaises de Chichijima
Sur l’île de Chichijima, on peut apercevoir une falaise en bord de mer à la forme singulière. À 200 mètres du sol, un rocher rouge en forme de cœur émerge. Il est surnommé Chihiroiwa, ce qui signifie littéralement le “rocher cœur.”
Sa couleur atypique serait dû à l’effet de la pluie sur la roche.
Ce spectacle époustouflant est visible soit depuis la mer, en faisant une croisière dans la baie de Marubeni, soit en faisant une randonnée.
L’île faisant partie d’une zone protégée, les circuits de randonnée ne sont accessibles que via un guide agréé. Avec un peu de chance si vous grimpez au rocher en hiver, vous pourrez aussi apercevoir des baleines à bosse.
Minamijima island : une oasis inhabitée et préservée
L’une des attractions phares de l’archipel d’Ogasawara : la visite de l’île inhabitée de Minamijima (南島, île du Sud). Située à 1km au sud-ouest de Chichijima, son accès est limité à 100 visiteurs pour protéger son écosystème. La visite ne peut se faire qu’accompagnée d’un guide local certifié.
Le point d’orgue de l’île, une magnifique plage de sable blanc en forme d’éventail. C’est également le lieu de reproduction des tortues vertes.
Attention, l’île est complètement fermée en hiver de novembre à février.
Le calme village d’Omura
Parmi la quarantaine d’îles que composent l’archipel, seulement deux sont habités : Chichijima et Hahajima.
Situé sur l’île de Chichijima, Omura est le plus gros “centre urbain” de l’archipel d’Ogasawara. Un petit village calme qui sent bon les tropiques.
Changement de décors, comme dans les îles d’Okinawa ici on se sent bien loin du Japon mainland que l’on connaît. En ville, les rangées de machiya ont laissés place à des pavillons blanc et bleu bordés d’hibiscus et de palmiers.
C’est par ailleurs, le port de débarquement du ferry.
Se rendre à Ogasawara en ferry
Pour atteindre ce charmant archipel, il faut tout de même faire preuve de patience : la traversée en ferry dure 24h depuis Tokyo.
Le ferry Ogasawara-Maru part du terminal de Takeshiba à Tokyo le matin et arrive au port Futami sur l’île de Chichijima le lendemain matin. De là, vous pouvez prendre d’autres ferry pour connecter les autres îles.
La croisière est déjà une aventure en soi et ne manque pas de beaux paysages en route.
Côté tarif, tout dépend du niveau de confort que l’on choisit pour sa cabine : entre 25 000 et 75 000 yens par personne (nb : les tarifs peuvent varier selon la saison). En classe économique, vous aurez une couchette dans un dortoir, alors qu’en version luxe vous avez la possibilité d’avoir une chambre privée avec salle de bain et toilettes.
Une faune et une flore endémique protégées
Ce qui la particularité (et la fragilité de cet archipel) c’est sa nature unique. Ce qui à valu aux îles leur inscription au patrimoine mondial de l’UNESCO depuis 2011.
Ce conservatoire exceptionnel d’espèces uniques au monde lui a aussi valu le surnom de “Galagapos de l’Asie”.
Une multitude d’espèces endémiques est protégée sur l’île. Parmi les plus populaires, on trouve le renard volant des Bonins, la chauve-souris frugivore, le pigeon à tête rouge… et l’escargot !
Plus d’une centaine d’espèces d’escargot habitent sur l’archipel. Il est d’ailleurs demandé aux voyageurs de nettoyer leur semelle de chaussure au vinaigre pour protéger ces gastéropodes de leur ennemi juré le ver plat.
Le saviez-vous ? Quelques anecdotes sur l’archipel d’Ogasawara
- L’archipel est aussi connu sous le nom des “îles Bonin”.
- Au XIXe siècle, sous l’influence des marins en escale, les habitants commencent à produire du rhum. Encore produit aujourd’hui dans l’archipel, c’est le plus ancien rhum japonais.
- Pendant la Seconde Guerre mondiale, l’île de Chichijima est le sombre théâtre de “l’incident de Chichijima” où des soldats japonais mangent 5 prisonniers américains.
- Suite à l’activité volcanique, une nouvelle île est apparue en août 2022 au sud d’Iwojima.
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